Istanbul, a cavallo tra Europa e Asia

Prima di partire per Istanbul avevo l'idea dei turchi come di un popolo chiuso e chissà mai perchè scorbutico. Forse perchè influenzato dalle classiche idee sul mondo mussulmano. Ebbene mi sono dovuto ricredere perchè non è così. Ho avuto subito modo di apprezzare i turchi come un popolo aperto ed ospitale, fatto di commercianti certo, quindi, in alcune circostanze imbonitori, ma sempre con un certo stile e con il sorriso sulle labbra anche quando ricevano un secco no! E guai a fermarsi per strada, anche per pochi secondi, con lo sguardo perso e la cartina in mano, perchè subito si avvicina qualcuno (di solito un uomo) per offrirti il suo aiuto.

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Si comunica facilmente in inglese prevalentemente con uomini, perchè le donne sono molto riservate e, mentre nelle zone più turistiche se ne incontrano diverse vestite come noi occidentali, nei quartieri della Istanbul più vera e con una tradizione mussulmana più forte se ne possono incontrare molte anche con il chador o con una specie di burca ed altre ancora con il vero e proprio burca, circondate sempre da flotte di bambini.

E una cosa che ti conquista subito sono proprio i bambini, tanti, per le vie, che giocano ovunque, con le palle, con un gessetto sul marciapiede, giocano con i turisti che salutano sfacciatamente con un sorriso buffo sulle labbra, come quel qualcosa che viene da lontano da studiare, da capire, da conoscere, ma da tenere ad una certa distanza.

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E poi scopri la città, o meglio, nei pochi giorni di permanenza, forse riesci ad assaporarne solo un pò il profumo per Istanbul è un mondo e come tutti i mondi avrebbe bisogno del suo tempo per essere scoperto.

Il primo monumento visitato è la Moschea Blù (vero nome Moschea di Sultan Hamed) chiamata così da noi occidentali per la prevalenza di maioliche Blu presenti al suo interno. Che dire? è gigante, di una bellezza estrema, si adagia con i suoi 6 minareti (un record nel mondo mussulmano secondo solo a La Mecca) ampio che consente di ammirarla in tutto il suo splendore. Un'insieme di linee curve che confluiscono al gigante un'infinita eleganza, continuità di linee e morbidezza, quella strana morbidezza che si percepisce nei movimenti dei gatti che vivono al suo interno e a dire il vero in tutti i vicoli di Istanbul.

Istanbul

I turchi hanno un rispetto particolare per questi animali ai quali danno del cibo e protezione. Mai visto gatti randagi così socievoli in vita mia! Amano farsi viziare e coccolare per poi fuggire via come da loro stile.

Anche i cani sono molto curati, parlare di randagi è infatti eccessivo, andrebbero definiti cani liberi censiti dal comune, dal momento che sono tutti identificati da una targhetta blu pinzata sull'orecchio.

Ma torniamo alla Moschea Blu, tutta la bellezza esteriore si ritrova all’interno, dai fregi sul soffitto ai colori riflessi dalla luce che entra attraverso le finestre di vetri colorati, dal tappeto rosso e morbido che copre il pavimento al lampadario di svariati metri quadrati con migliaia di lampadine.

Molto suggestivo è rito del togliersi le scarpe necessario per entrare in una moschea che subito ti mette in contatto con un’atmosfera di devozione e rispetto. Devo dire che le stesse sensazioni, a volte ancora più forti, le danno le altre piccole moschee che abbiamo visitato, alcuni veri gioielli di bellezza esteriore e spirito, per ciò che erano in grado di emanare e suscitare almeno negli animi in ascolto.

Hagia Sophia (in italiano Santa Sofia) chiesa diventata moschea ed attualmente sconsacrata ed adibita a museo è ricca di mosaici e di linee contrastanti che sposano la cultura ed architettura cristiana con quella mussulmana.

Un mondo a se è invece la Cisterna-Basilica (Yerebatan Sarayı) costriuta da Giustiniano nel 500, dedalo di colonne, circa 300, sotterranee, auualmente illuminate da luci artificiali. Serviva per raccogliere l’acqua ed oggi è un luogo affascinante che avremmo voluto vedere sicuramente meno affollato per poter captare anche il silenzio di quel luogo rotto solo dalle gocce che cadono dal soffitto a volta e che hanno formato nel tempo il lago sottostante nel nel quale sono immerse le colonne e dove oggi nuotano le Carpe .... un luogo surreale.

Istanbul

La Torre Malaga, una visione a 360 gradi sulla città, antico bastione genovese (attualmente all'interno del quartiere Pera) e simbolo di uno dei anti sconvolgimenti storici che ha vissuto Istanbul.

Ricordiamo la corsa per raggiungere la torre nell’ora del crepuscolo dove il passaggio dal sole alla notte permette di godere a pieno di tutte le meraviglie del Bosforo; dai contorni definiti delle moschee di giorno ai ponti che cambiano colore nella notte.

Come dicevo i Turchi sono un popolo di commercianti quindi una visita al suk era dobbiga ma non mi aspettavo una cora del genere! Il mercato (Gran Bazaar) è una sorta di cittadella circondata da mura e all’interno strade e negozi con zone suddivise per merci prevalenti, la zona dell’argento, dei tappeti, dell pelle delle ceramiche. Colori, forme profumi tutto e tanto, quasi disorientente.

Lo stesso vale per il mercato delle spezie dove sono colori e profumi a prevalee e per l’acquisto il gioco del contrattare al quale non ci si poò sottrarre. In questo mercato abbiamo fatto l’incontro con usanze antiche, inpregnate ancora di credenze popolari come per esempio l’incintro con centinaia di sanguisuga vendute per i salassi pratica superata e ritenuta inutile ma evidentemente ancora in uso in questo paese. Devo ammettere che la visione di qesti animali mi ha turbato ed accompagnato per un bel pò.

Istanbul

Un’aspetto da sottolineare del viaggio sono poi i mille locali che popolavano le vie di quartieri come Taxim e i migliaia di giovani che li frequentano.

Istanbul città viva vivace in fermento, con molti posti da esplorare e culture da scoprire, un posto che vale la pena visitare e dove farci ritorno più volte.

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