Messico dove cultura, mare e divertimento si incontrano

Arriviamo in Messico da Roma dopo aver fatto scalo a New York atterrando Mexico City. La prima cosa che ci colpisce di questo viaggio è la Dogana, dove ci verrà chiesto di premere un pulsante collegato ad un semaforo che deciderà il futuro del vostro bagaglio, luce verde, si va spediti verso l'uscita; luce rossa il bagaglio viene ispezionato. La probabilità di ottenere la luce rossa è circa uno su cinque.

Mexico City è prima meta di un viaggio di 3 settimane on the road, utilizzando mezzi locali, con il gruppo di Viaggi Avventure Nel Mondo.

Mexico City

Già dall'aereo la capitale messicana colpisce per la sua estensione, 8.700.000 abitanti che salgono a 19.704.125 considerando la zona metropolitana, e per la sula altezza, 2300mt (quasi non si avverte la discesa dell'aereo prime dell'atterraggio). E' una città ricca di contraddizioni a causa della forte immigrazione in arrivo da tutto il Messico; si passa dai grattacieli del centro alle immense baraccopoli della periferia.

Anticamente una buona parte del territorio del Distretto Federale era occupato da un sistema di laghi. Nel 1900, il presidente Porfirio Díaz inaugurò il sistema di drenaggio della valle, che continua a funzionare ancora oggi impedendo all'acqua di riformarsi nel sottosuolo della città. Gli ultimi resti del lago sono si trovano nella zona chiamata Xochimilco Tláhuac.

Xochimilco, dichiarato dall'Unesco patrimonio dell'umanità è chiamato la Venezia messicana per la peculiare composizione del territorio, diviso da lunghi e articolati canali separati dalle chinampas su cui si coltiva di tutto, soprattutto mais e fiori.

Anche il Centro Storico, che diede origine alla nascita e allo sviluppo successivo della città, è stato dichiarato dall'Unesco patrimonio dell'umanità, era anche il centro dell'antica Tenochtitlàn e venne costruito in seguito alla distruzione da parte degli spagnoli dell'antica città per costruire la capitale della Nuova Spagna.

Altra imperdibile attrazione della città è il museo nazionale di antropologia in cui si trova la maggiore collezione del mondo di arte precolombiana delle culture Maya, Azteca, Olmeca, Teotihuacana, Tolteca, Zapoteca e Mixtecan (da non perdere il "fallo" gigante). Visita obbligata prima di visitare Teotihuacán il più grande sito archeologico precolombiano del Nord America che, nel momento di massimo splendore, è stata la più grande città del continente americano.

Il primo contato con le piramidi, che non ci lasceranno mai soli in tutto il viaggio, lo avremo con Teotihuacán, il più grande sito archeologico precolombiano del Nord America. Sui lati dell'ampio viale centrale della città, chiamato "Viale dei Morti", sorgono l'immensa Piramide del Sole (la seconda per grandezza tra le piramidi del nuovo mondo dopo la Grande piramide di Cholula), la Piramide della Luna, e molte altre piattaforme costruite con lo stile talud-tablero.

Teotihuacán

Prima di partire da questa particolare città non potefamo farci una birra nella tipica Piazza Garibaldi dove è possibile ascoltare le classiche melodie messicane ad opera dei mariaci e dove si incontrano i personaggi più strani.

Teotihuacán

La Piramide di Cholula, in lingua maya Tlahchiualtepetl (montagna fatta dall'uomo) è la più grande piramide del mondo, misura 500 metri per lato ed è alta 64 metri, con i suoi 4,5 milioni di metri cubi è considerata la struttura più grande mai costruita dall'uomo.

Chulula

Si trova a Cholula, vicino a Puebla, ed appare come una collina naturale ricoperta d'erba, suddivisa sulla cui sommità, dove una volta si trovava il tempio, ora si trova la chiesa cattolica dedicata a Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. Il centro storico di Puebla è stato dichiarato dall'Unesco patrimonio dell'umanità per la ricchezza di edifici coloniali che lo compongono. La visita di Puebla è stata un'ottima occasione per noi di bere una birra e riposarci dopo la scalata della piramide.

Lasciamo la zona di Città del Massico per per 2 tappe "poco turistiche" andando a Nord prima a Puerto Vallarda e poi a Lazaro Gardenas. Puerto Vallarda è una cittadina carina molto turistica, è una delle tappe battute dalle navi da crociera e ha delle belle spiagge (per noi è stata un'occasione per un mexico-italia a beach volley) dove si possono mangiare degli ottimi spiedini di gamberi fritti.

Lazaro Gardenas invece è una cittadina industriale, tristissima, una tappa da dimenticare, abbiamo passato la giornata in albergo.

Finalmente si riparte verso sud, destinazione Acapulco sulla la costa centro meridionale del Messico, ed è stato il primo centro turistico del paese ad avere una certa notorietà all’estero grazie ai tuffatori della Quebrada, che per pochi dollari e per il piacere dei turisti, si tuffano da un'altezza di 35mt in maniera spericolata in un'insenatura larga pochi metri e profonda ancora meno. Abbiamo alloggiato proprio nello storico albergo da dove è possibile vedere i tuffatori arrampicarsi a mani nude dal mare sulla roccia a picco per poi tuffarsi dopo una veloce preghiera davanti ad un piccolo santuario che si trova in cima al dirupo.

Teotihuacán

La sensazione che si percepisce si ha visitando questi luoghi è di una città che ha attraversato un periodo florido grazie al turismo di massa, prevalenza americano (la spiaggia è piena di grattacieli) che ha snaturato il paesaggio e inquinato pesantemente il mare, per poi abbandonarla al proprio destino. Oggi la città è meta prevalentemente di turisti messicani, ma rimane comunque una città molto viva e piena di locali e discoteche.

Dopo aver vissuto in questa città per 2 giorni ripartiamo alle volta di Puerto Escondido (porto nascosto), set dell'omonimo film di Salvatores, fino a 15 anni fa era era un piccolo e riparato villaggio di pescatori con un porto utilizzato per l'imbarco di merci preziose e caffè, isolato e tranquillo, ma negli ultimi anni tutto è cambiato, l'isolamento è solo un ricordo. Oggi è la principale meta dei serfisti di tutto il mondo per le immense onde. Qui alloggiamo in un bellissimo albergo sulla spiaggia per ben 3 giorni di meritato relax.

Puerto Escondito

E' un vero e proprio paradiso naturale ed è la località turistica più antica della regione. Negli anni '30 divenne una cittadina, pur conservando la sua antica atmosfera, la tranquillità delle sue splendide spiagge bianche, l'esotica vegetazione e la sua fauna abbondante. Negli anni '70, la zona iniziò ad essere frequentata ed apprezzata dai primi turisti, in cerca di vacanze avventurose in luoghi di grande bellezza. A partire dal 1982, la crescente domanda spinse il Governo Federale e Statale a supportare lo sviluppo turistico di questa piccola località, vennero costruiti moderni alberghi, fu avviato un miglioramento dell'immagine urbana della città e la realizzazione dell'aeroporto, tutto questo senza intaccare quell'atmosfera di avventura e di vita all'aria aperta che caratterizza la località.

Dopo aver bivaccato sulle spiagge di Puerto Escondido ripartiamo per il Chapas, prima tappa San Cristóbal de Las Casas tra le montagne della Sierra Madre, la città è famosa per la sua bella architettura in stile coloniale. Fu capitale del Chiapas in epoca coloniale fino alla dittatura di Porfirio Díaz, attualmente si può considerare la capitale culturale del Chiapas.

San Cristóbal de Las Casas

La storia del Chiapas è molto complicata, fino al 1868 i discendenti degli spagnoli continuavano a esercitare il loro dominio sui nativi Indios, in questa data gli indigeni riuscirono quasi a conquistare San Cristóbal de Las Casas, poi la capitale Tuxla Gutiérrez, prima di essere sconfitti dall'esercito messicano.

Fino al 1963 gli indigeni soffrono ancora una situazione di terribile oppressione da parte dei discendenti degli spagnoli, gran parte di essi non ha accesso all'acqua potabile e l'analfabetismo è estremamente diffuso. Gli indigeni che vivono nei centri urbani subiscono il razzismo dei meticci e difficilmente riescono a trovare lavori dignitosi e spesso vengono loro negati servizi fondamentali, per esempio sanitari.

Tutto ciò portò, nel novembre del 1983, alla formazione dell'Esercito Zapatista di Liberazione Nazionale (EZLN). L'insurrezione, che ebbe luogo il 1° gennaio del 1994, era il giorno in cui entrava in vigore il North American Free Trade Agreement: in coincidenza con quell'avvenimento, l'EZLN attuò l'occupazione di sette municipi del Chiapas. Fu un'occupazione simbolica, che durò una sola notte, e per la gran parte dei casi fu realizzata disarmando l'esercito senza sparare un colpo, tra i centri assediati figura San Cristóbal de Las Casas, dove il Subcomandante Marcos lesse la prima dichiarazione della Selva Lacandona, attraverso la quali i nuovi zapatisti reclamarono i loro diritti, si ritirarono il giorno dopo, ma la loro vittoria fu politica, non militare. L'azione ebbe risonanza mondiale. Gli insorti si assicurarono così quella solidarietà e quella visibilità internazionale che permisero loro di evitare la ritosione del governo e quindi di essere massacrati dall'esercito regolare, con il quale non potevano competere militarmente.

San Juan Chamula

Nelle terre attorno a San Cristobal vivono ancora parecchi discendenti indios che scendono dalle montagne per vendere i propri oggetti d'artigianato nei mercati e per fare acquisti, a pochi chilometri di distanza, c’è un misterioso villaggio dove sacro e profano, riti indigini e globalizzazione si fondono in una mistica miscela dando vita al paesino di San Juan Chamula.

San Juan Chamula e’ immerso nella campagna dove le case al posto del cemento armato hanno fango secco e canne di bambù e dove il tempo viene ancora misurato con la meridiana. La lingua ufficiale non è lo spagnolo ma un dialetto che trascina con sè ancora i semi dell’antico linguaggio Maya, la forma di commercio è il baratto e leggi e le sue osservanze sono decise dal capo villaggio.

Appena si arriva a San Juan, sulla collina, si trova il cimitero, non ci sono recinzioni, le croci in legno riempiono un grande prato. Sono piccoli, coi bordi di forma differente per distinguere chi è morto di morte naturale da chi è morto tragicamente (solo i morti di morte naturale, per gli indios Chamula, riposano in pace, gli altri vagano su questa terra, soffrendo e manifestandosi col vento e le ombre) e di colori diversi a seconda dell'età del defunto.

La religiosità di questa gente è un impasto di Cristianesimo e culti precolombiani, principalmente viene venerato San Giovanni Battista, anche se nessuno chi fosse, seguono poi tutti gli altri santi, tuttavia, per questo gente il santo è una maschera delle trascorse divinità: il Dio del cielo, il Dio del fuoco...

La Chiesa principale dedicata a San Juan Bautista, bianca con grandi finestre, croci Maya e drappi di stoffa colorata, non vengono celebrate messe e non ci sono sacerdoti, l'atmosfera all'interno è molto suggestiva ci sono migliaia di candele e ceri sparsi sulle pareti e sul pavimento che è, tra l'altro, ricoperto di rami e aghi di pino, che simboleggiano il contatto con la natura. Nell'abside troneggia una statua di san Giovanni, accanto, molto piccola una statua di Gesù, il resto delle pareti è ricoperto di teche con statue e feticci di altri santi, ai nostri occhi immagini piuttosto angoscianti, con la gente in silenzio che si confessa parlando alle statue. Ogni immagine porta al collo uno specchio, in cui il fedele, confessandosi, può vedere il proprio viso.

Palenque

Palenque è un sito archeologico maya situato nello stato messicano del Chiapas, non lontano dal fiume Usumacinta, che contiene alcune delle più belle opere di architettura e scultura che i Maya abbiano prodotto. Completamente immerso nella foresta piena di scimmie urlatrici e tra i siti più belli del Messico per la bellissima location.

Palenque è stato riconosciuto nel 1987 patrimonio dell'Umanità dall'Unesco

Cascate di Agua Azul

Dopo la visita al sito archeologico di Palenque facciamo tappa alle splendide cascate di Misol-Ha (25 km da Palenque) e Agua Azul. Misol-Ha è una magnifica cascata che precipita per 35 metri circondata dalla vegetazione tropicale dove, un sentiero ci permette di passare dietro alla cascata, al suo termine è possibile visitare una mini-grotta.

Le Cascate di Agua Azul, immerse all'interno della foresta pluviale, sono costituite da decine di cascate minori e piccoli laghi, nella stagione secca le acque sono trasparenti e blu mentre durante la piena assumono un colore tendente al marrone. L’acqua in alcuni punti è bassa e forma delle piscine naturali in cui si può tranquillamente fare il bagno, è possibile ammirarle risalendo a piedi lungo un sentiero che le costeggia, inoltre ci sono tavoli per fare pic-nic e un ristorante con specialità di pesce di fiume.

Uxmal

Si riparte ancora, questa volta verso Uxmal, un importante sito archeologico Maya nella penisola dello Yucatan, nell'antica lingua maya significa "Tre volte ricostruita", fu fondata intorno al VI secolo d.C. e raggiunse il suo massimo sviluppo nel Periodo Classico divenendo il principale centro cerimoniale della civiltà Puuc. Il sito di Uxmal si presenta in un ottimo stato di conservazione delle strutture e rappresenta un esempio di architettura maya eguagliato in bellezza solo dal sito di Palenque, lo stile Puuc è predominante e colpisce soprattutto la ricchezza e la eleganza delle decorazioni.

Dichiarato nel 1986 patrimonio dell'Umanità dall'Unesco perchè le strutture cerimoniali a Uxmal rappresentano l'apice di arte maya mostrando la struttura sociale ed economica della fine società Maya.

Molto bello il Campo del gioco della Pelota (Juego de la Pelota) è l'unica struttura del genere nella regione Puuc. Quanto a dimensioni e stato di conservazione non regge il confronto con analoghe strutture presenti in altri siti maya, come per esempio quello di Chichen Itza. E' composto da un quadrilatero erboso, delimitato a est e a ovest da due tribune laterali, sul basamento delle quali si trovano due anelli di pietra attraverso i quali andava fatta passare la palla.

Celestum

Terminata la visita di Uxmal dobbiamo trovare qualcosa da fare nel pomeriggio, improvvisiamo quindi una visita nella riserva naturale di Celestun è un vero paradiso terrestre dove vivono colonie di fenicotteri rosa, si può noleggiare una lancia per uscire in mare per visitare il parco naturale dei fenicotteri, tra lagune, manglares, cenotes, isolette, corsi d'acqua sotterranei, è possibile incontrare anche garzette, anitre e cormorani. Molto bella è anche la foresta di mangrovie con cenote, una sorgente d'acqua sotterranea che in alcuni periodi dell'anno diventa rossa a causa di pigmenti colorati rilasciati dalle mangrovie.

Si parte la mattina per Chichén Itzá, forse il più importante complesso archeologico maya situato nel Messico, nel nord della penisola dello Yucatan. Le rovine, si estendono su un'area di 3 km appartenevano a una grande città che fu uno dei più importanti centri della regione intorno al periodo epiclassico della civiltà maya, fra il VI e l'XI secolo. Il sito comprende numerosi edifici, rappresentativi di diversi stili architettonici, fra i più celebri si possono indicare la Piramide di Kukulkan (nota come El Castillo e non più scalabile), l'osservatorio astronomico (il Caracol) e il Tempio dei guerrieri.

Chichén Itzá

Anche Chichén Itzá è stato dichiarato patrimonio dell'Umanità dall'Unesco nel 1996 e nel 2007 è stata inserita tra le 7 meraviglie del mondo moderno.

Partiamo per l'ultima tappa del nostro viaggio, ci dirigiamo verso Tulum, per alloggiare in un bellissimo villaggio sulla spiaggia composto di cabanas.Il centro di Tulum è rappresentato da una strada principale dove ai lati si trovano i piccoli negozietti, dal fruttivendolo, alla farmacia. Ma il vero paradiso di Tulum si trova lungo la spiaggia sulla quale ci sono molti villaggi formati da cabanas con atmosfera paradisiaca con le amache ed il mare da mozzafiato.

Tulum

Passiamo gli ultimi glorni di relax proprio in uno di questi villaggi, comunque Tulum non è solo spiaggia, dal momento che si trova un sito archeologico importante di gran impatto dal momento che è l'unico sito Maya posizionato sulla costa.

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